This season’s fashion week in New York showcased a mix of hair finishes. Everything from super-sleek, polished lengths, buns, and braids to a mass download of texture. A raw texture made an appearance in all of its glory and ranged from frizz to waves, curl and even kink. Designers from ECRU, Bumble and Bumble, and Oribe offered these trend observations and easy how-to steps t get the look in the salon or at home.
ECRU New York was the exclusive backstage hair and beauty sponsor for the Flying Solo FW19 runway show where the team worked backstage to design for the collective of over 70 designers for five NYFW seasons.
“The ECRU New York team is always welcoming our crazy ideas and are always up for a challenge. It feels like family now to be working together. For Fall/Winter 2019, we really wanted everything about the show including the hair and makeup to reflect the originality and creativity of our designers,” says Daniel Silverstain, lead designer. This season, 50 international designers within the Flying Solo co-op showcased over 200 looks from womenswear and accessories to menswear in a unique, collaborative and high-energy format.
The ECRU New York Creative Team, led by Creative Director, Lisa Lobosco, complimented the unique styles of all 50 designers by creating hair and beauty artistry inspired by retro, ‘50s Vogue editorials with an architectural feel in the hair look. A high, sleek bun was positioned at the top of the head using Setting Spray and Sunlight Finishing Spray Max. The finishing touch was precisely placed flesh-colored tulle draped over the face and up over the hair, billowing from behind the bun.
“The collection this season was really inspired by the age of social media and the culture of excess and showing off – meets modern-woman,” said designer Christian Cowan. “It’s all about the idea of showing off your money, your cars, and your body.”
“What better way to show off than Disco Fever,” added Bumble and bumble Global Fashion Director and hair lead Laurent Philippon. “It’s light, it’s airy, it’s sexy.”
Philippon created the looks for this collection using harnessed texture to offset the bold fashion statements. To create the looks, Philippon sectioned the hair, then wet each section with Bb Does it All – a light hairspray. Each section was looped into a figure-8 pattern around large hairpins and then each pin set was heated with a flat iron for 10 sections and allowed to cool. The pin sets were undone and a fine-tooth comb was run through each section. More Does It All was sprayed over the top before adding a bright Sarah Sokol Millinery cap.
“The Mansur Gavriel woman gets sharper every season,” said Philippon. “Designers Floriana and Rachel have found their own aesthetic – but we’re always thinking about who this woman truly is and redefining her. This season, we began with the thought of virgin hair – long and wavy. But when we reached casting, there were so many characters, and trying to transform them into anything else felt weird. She’s not trendy. There are no real references. There’s still ethereal hair, but there’s a lot of diversity – a great deal of respect to the unique character of a woman.”
The Bumble hair artist first applied Bb.Thickening Spray to create a clean center part and then brush the hair out into sections. Each section was sprayed with Does It All for a flexible hold. Working a 3-barrel iron throughout each section, Philippon rotated the iron to alternate the curl direction and ultimately the wave pattern. Hair was pulled up into a loose, low pony using a scrunchie. For finer or short hair, Philippon recommends using Prep Primer, then leave the hair to air dry with Don’t Blow It (Fine). For naturally textured hair, use Bb. Curl Anti-Humidity Gel Oil to define curls, finishing with NEW Bb.Curl Luminious Oil Spray for extra sheen and heat/UV protection.
“The inspiration is strictly the designer’s – simple and clean,” said Jimmy Paul, Bumble and bumble hair lead. “Something womanly and sophisticated; grown up, but with a little humor.”
Paul began the look with Bumble and bumble Thickening Spray, misting it liberally, and making a clean center part. He used Bb.Gel to smooth the edges. After bringing the hair into a low pony, Paul created a braid. He wrapped the braid tightly into a chignon. For more attitude, pull the tail of the braid was left out. Paul finished the look with Bb.Does It All. For naturally textured hair, he smoothed strands with Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Heat/UV Protective Primer.
Oribe Educator Manny Rolon took the lead on hair for Sundae School’s NYFW Men’s Day F/W19 collection. Striving to showcase hair in its purest form, the team highlighted the varying textures and added pops of bright colored chalk throughout to emulate flame.
To get the look, Rolon took Fiber Groom in his fingertips and raked through the hair to bring out pre-existing natural texture. He molded to the desired shape, and in some cases, colored the tips of the hair with water-soluble hair chalk.
Creative Director for designer Dear Miler Jimin Kim and Oribe Educator Mandee Tauber were inspired by downtown effortlessness that still looked put-together. Mandee emphasized the model's natural hair textures that were brought out by hand styling.
To style, Foundation Mist was sprayed all over to awaken curls. Tauber applied Grandiose Hair Plumping Mousse to the roots to pump up the volume. Next, he ran Featherbalm Weightless Styler at the ends.
Oribe Photography by Tess Mayer