According to Mike Petrizzi, a color specialist at Chris Chase Salon in NYC and artistic director for AGEbeautiful, there’s a new wave of hair color trends sweeping through. And this season, the gotta-have-it hues involve some subtle nuances while others lean toward significant changes. Here's what he had to say…
When it comes to specific shades, what do you feel is happening this season and into the next with redheads, blondes, and brunettes?
Petrizzi: The pendulum has swung the other way regarding blondes who have been balayaged for the last few seasons and miss having brightness at their roots. I am doing a lot of soft base smudging and combining precision foiling right up to the base, with heavily saturated free-hand balayage on the mid-lengths and ends of the hair. Blondes that are bored with traditional platinum and gold tones are shifting into pearlescent and rose-beige tones.
Reds are going more subdued and softer. Coppers are transitioning into roséwhile in-your-face auburns are now having whispers of strawberry and deeper red shades that reflect warm blush tones.
Cool, crisp, and arctic brunettes are going to bring the chill into this fall and winter. Clients are clamoring for blue-based brown shades that are the polar opposite of warm. Think medium browns that reflect denim lowlights, light browns with veils of violet, and rich brunettes that have an almost blue-black super radiant shine.
How about with fashion color?
Petrizzi: While all the other shades seem to be progressing softer and nuanced this season, the fashion colors are moving into the spotlight-stealing, extra vibrant lane. Reds, violets, pinks, and blues are all going to be pumping up the pigment power for radiant results that demand attention.
How is color placement evolving?
Petrizzi: We have seen so much rooted action with balayage that clients are over the rawness and now want their base to feel as polished as the rest of their hair. That doesn’t mean we are going to see traditional foil work again, but rather a concerted effort in shadow roots and free-hand balayage that incorporates brightness all the way up to the base of the hair shaft. Clients with finer hair are also using shadow root effects to give the illusion of thicker hair, especially with baby fine blonde hair.
What will be popular for mainstream clients?
Petrizzi: A lot of my heavily-grayed clients are making the switch from traditional opaque (permanent) hair color to more translucent, blended results. This is achieved by switching into a demi-permanent shade that allows for peaks and valleys in the final result. Clients now see their grays as highlights and love the lower maintenance grow-out and the fact that a simple one-step single-process technique looks like they spent hours in the salon getting highlights and lowlights. This technique is especially popular for people that have previous beachy balayaged highlights and now want to transition the incoming grays to look like new highlights.
What about more daring clients?
Petrizzi: I see them as fresh new canvases! Some of my must-have-something-new and never-been-done-before clients are doing what I call “color resets.” We cleanse the hair of all of its previous color using a gentle, yet powerful hair lightener and get the hair to a level that will support the final target color. I’ve been having a lot of fun taking bored brunettes into beige blondes, restless reds into rosé, and even deep ravens into frigid midnight blue browns.
What fashion color combinations will carry over into the cooler months and if so, how are they changing?
Petrizzi: The synchronicity from certain color combinations will never go out of style. Soft strawberry reds with flirts of fuchsia; platinum pixies with pearlescent pops; classic caramels with carefully-placed cranberry will all be just as popular in the coming year. Expect to see more vibrancy and more fluidity in the placement especially with color melting techniques.
What’s your general recommendation to clients for color care?
Petrizzi: To think of cleansing and conditioning your hair as part of your color process. There are so many products available now that will refresh color with direct dyes so you’re not only cleansing but coloring every wash. I personally like Quantum Color Refresh Shampoo and Conditioner.
Do you have a favorite line or lines for color care?
Petrizzi: When you’re devoting this much time, effort, and money into your hair color, it is essential to invest in a quality home care regime. Be sure to use a sulfate and paraben free line that hydrates the hair as it cleanses. Biotera Ultra Color Care is my go-to for long-lasting color plus that incredible Wild Orchid fragrance is always a fan favorite.
Mike Petrizzi of Chris Chase Salon in NYC
Artistic Director for AGEbeautiful