Expert Advice by U.K. Colorist
Photo courtesy of Neil Smith, Barrie Stephen Hair
As we move into autumn, we are seeing colors and techniques transition into deeper romantic and sophisticated shades. The ever so popular rose gold shades of summer are deepening and intensifying into rosy copper hues with accents of plums, violets and magenta. Auburn will be red hot this winter, seeing coppers and light chocolates blending for that perfect autumnal color choice that’s seductive and a real head turner.
Blonde hair isn’t going anywhere either, as our lighter haired clients will be seeking multifaceted platinum’s. Soft mixes of natural, pearl, beige and nude tones will keep blondes looking vibrant, glossy and healthy looking through the duller months. Butterscotch blonde adds warmth and a rich lustre for those seeking healthy and expensive looking blonde hair. Selecting the same golden tone on different depths will keep your client’s hair looking natural without the risk of hair looking brassy.
For those demanding drama and high impact color, black will deliver just that. It is a bold color move but one that screams sophistication, elegance, individuality and one that will certainly attract attention. Perfect for all those fashionistas out there! If you feel jet black is too bold, try adjusting the color direction and go for navy blues, blackcurrant purples, black cherry reds or matte black emerald greens. These shades can all set off a multitude of different skin tones while still keeping hair dark.
Natural muted browns are the only way to be brunette through the cool season, from light ash brown, cappuccinos and mocha shades, to dark bitter cocoa. Brown is a very versatile color that appears velvety soft and rich.
With all these colors exciting our color pallet, the correct technique and application is vital to stay one step ahead. We are seeking more all over coloring techniques emerging but that doesn’t mean that color has to look solid or heavy. Glosses and global colors will add multi tones over existing balayage and ombres, coloring the hair with natural highs and lows, while still injecting depth and tone. I always promote to my team to create a color that cannot be copied, or one that’s not easy for another hair colourist to recreate. The color is a bespoke mixture to the individual and for it to work on someone else, the quantities would have to be altered to achieve similar results.
James Taylor
Under sliding is the perfect balance for a client wanting to darken down their hair, but not wanting to lose all of the lightness. Keep the underneath areas of the hair lighter, working on diagonal sections, allowing the hair to fall onto the face, darkening the top section. Black coloring, highlighting or freehand application techniques can be easily adjusted to suit every client’s hair texture, length or preferences of how they want the color to appear. But (colorosts are advised to) remember to merge and melt the colors into each other to avoid heavy lines or conflicting contrasts.
Darker roots are a big fashion accessory to have this fall, as the ombre hair trend continues to evolve. Where you allow your natural color to grow through for those extra couple of weeks, your styling will look sophisticated with a rebellious twist. Being uptight about roots has no positive returns and limits creativity.
- James Taylor, Barrie Stephen Hair in Leicester, England
